Help & FAQ

It is a free, community-driven library of laser cutter and engraver settings — power, speed, line interval, passes, and more — for a huge range of machines and materials.

The goal is simple: stop guessing. Instead of running dozens of test cuts from scratch, you find a known starting point for your machine and material, send it to your laser, and fine-tune from there.

The library covers CO2, diode, fiber/infrared, UV, and RF machines, and it grows constantly from manufacturer references, trusted supplier libraries, and settings shared by other makers.

Yes — free forever. There are no paid tiers and no charges, ever.

Maker Foundry makes money from the blanks and supplies we sell and from affiliate partnerships, not from subscriptions. The library is a way to help the maker community and bring people into it.

The only thing we ask is a free sign-in with your email (see "Why do I need to sign in?"), which keeps you in the loop on new features and deals.

There are two ways, both free:

1. Email — enter your email on the login page and we send you a one-time sign-in code. Paste it in and you are in. No password to remember.
2. Continue with Google — one click with your Google account.

You can browse setting pages without signing in, but signing in unlocks the actions: exporting/downloading files, saving favorites, saving your own private copies, voting, submitting settings, and registering your machines.

Signing in is what keeps the library free. It lets us keep you posted on new settings, tools, and deals, and it powers your personal features — favorites, saved copies, your machines, and votes.

Reading setting pages is public (great for quick reference and search). The verbs — export, save, submit, favorite, vote — need a free account so they are tied to you.

Use the left sidebar on desktop, or the menu on mobile. The main areas:

• Library — browse and search all validated settings.
• By Material — the same settings grouped by material.
• Tools — calculator, converters, and the file converter.
• Favorites / My Settings / My Machines — your personal area.
• Planner, Gifting Calendar, Project Ideas — planning and inspiration.
• Brands & Suppliers, Discounts, Communities — where to buy and where to hang out.
• Help / FAQ — this help center.

Yes. The whole app is mobile-friendly — browse, search, view settings, and copy values from your phone right at the machine. Exporting files is easiest on a computer where you will import them into LightBurn or xTool software, but everything else works great on mobile.

Start on the Library page (the home page when signed in). The fastest paths:

1. Type in the search bar — it matches material, color, brand, machine, and notes all at once. Try "P3 acrylic" or "basswood cut".
2. Use the filter dropdowns to narrow by manufacturer, machine, laser type, operation, and more.
3. Or switch to By Material to browse everything grouped by material.

Every result links to a full setting page with the numbers and an export button.

The search is multi-word and searches everywhere at once — material, color, brand, vendor, manufacturer, machine, notes, laser type, and surface. Every word you type must appear somewhere in the result.

So "f2 tumbler" finds a setting on an F2 machine for a tumbler material, even though those two words are in different fields. Keep adding words to narrow it down.

Each dropdown narrows the list. You can combine as many as you like; active filters show as removable chips with a live result count.

• Manufacturer — the machine brand (xTool, Aeon, OneLaser, etc.).
• Machine — the specific model. Picking a manufacturer trims this to just their machines.
• Laser type — Diode, CO2, Fiber/Infrared, UV, RF, or IR.
• Operation — Cut, Engrave, or Score.
• Surface / setup — the processing mode/setup a setting was made for.
• Vector/bitmap — vector (line) vs bitmap (raster/image) work.
• Wattage — laser power of the machine.
• Brand — the material brand.
• Source type — where the setting came from (see "What do the source labels mean?").
• Thickness — material thickness (mostly on cut settings).
• Vendor — the supplier the material is sold by.

Use Clear all to reset everything.

Yes — use the sort dropdown:

• Newest first (default) — most recently added settings.
• Oldest first.
• Most favorited — the settings the community saves the most, a good signal of what works.

A toggle at the top of the Library switches how results are shown:

• Detailed — larger cards with the full numbers, notes, and shop links visible.
• Compact — image-forward, tighter cards so you can scan a lot of settings quickly, then tap one for the details.

Both load more results as you go with a Load more button, and the header shows how many of the total you are viewing.

By Material flips the library around: instead of one row per setting, it groups everything by material (and color, and machine). Open a material and you will see its engrave, cut, and score settings linked together, with cut settings broken out by thickness.

It is the best view when you know the material you are working with and want to see every option across machines at a glance.

Signed-out visitors see a public sample so the library is discoverable and searchable on Google. Sign in free to unlock the full library, all filters, and every action. Individual setting pages are fully public — you can read any one you land on.

On each setting page you will see:

• Power — laser power, as a percentage of the machine's max.
• Speed — how fast the head moves (usually mm/s; some machines use mm/min).
• LPC / DPI / Line Interval — engraving resolution. Line interval is the gap between scan lines (smaller = finer/darker); DPI/LPI is the same idea expressed as dots/lines per inch. This only applies to engraving, not cutting.
• Passes — how many times the laser repeats the path (more passes cut thicker material).
• Frequency / Pulse Width — fine controls used mostly on fiber/CO2 for certain effects.
• Engraving angle — the scan angle for engraves.
• Crosshatch — whether the engrave is filled in two directions.
• Thickness — material thickness the cut was tested at.
• Lens — the lens used (mostly CO2), when provided.

• Cut — a vector line that goes all the way through the material.
• Engrave — burning a surface mark, either filled art/text (raster/bitmap) or a light vector line.
• Score — a light vector line that marks the surface without cutting through (great for fold lines or outlines).

Cut and Score are vector operations, so they do not use a line interval — you will only see that on Engrave settings.

On a setting page, this panel links together every setting for the same material on the same machine:

• The Engrave setting is shown once (engraving does not change with thickness).
• Cut settings are listed by thickness (3mm, 6mm, 10mm…), so you can jump straight to the thickness you have.
• Score appears if available.

The one you are currently viewing is highlighted. It is the quickest way to move between thicknesses without going back to search.

Each setting shows where it came from so you know how much to trust it as-is:

• Supplier reference / Official — from a manufacturer or supplier's own library. Great context, but still test on your machine.
• Maker Foundry — shared or derived by us as a starting point.
• Community report — shared by another maker. Helpful, but not verified for every setup.

No matter the source, always run a test on scrap first — see the safety notice on every setting page.

Because no two setups are identical. Tube age and wattage drift, lens and focus, air assist, material batch, ambient temperature, and mirror alignment all shift results. A setting from the library is a starting point, not a guarantee.

Run the setting on a scrap piece of the same material, check the result, and adjust power/speed slightly if needed. The built-in Test Grid Generator (see Tools) makes this fast.

Open any setting page and use the Export panel (you need to be signed in). Depending on the machine you get:

• LightBurn — a .clb library file. Import it in LightBurn and the material appears in your Material Library with no retyping.
• xTool — an XCS .json file. In xTool Creative Space, import it via Materials → Import.
• Copy — copies the numbers as text so you can type them into any software.

The app picks the right format for the machine automatically.

1. Download the .clb from the setting's Export panel.
2. In LightBurn, open the Material Library window (Window → Material Library).
3. Click the import icon and choose the downloaded .clb file.
4. The material/setting now appears in your library — right-click it to apply to a layer.

Tip: the file is named for the material and machine, so your library stays organized.

1. Download the XCS .json from the Export panel.
2. In xTool Creative Space, go to the material/parameters area and choose Materials → Import.
3. Select the downloaded .json file. The setting loads with the correct process type (cut, fill/engrave, or line engrave) already mapped.

Yes. The Export panel has a Copy button that puts the full setting on your clipboard as plain text — machine, material, operation, power, speed, and the rest. Handy for machines/software that are not LightBurn or xTool, or to paste into your own notes.

On any setting page, click Save a private copy. This copies the setting into your personal My Settings area, where you can:

• Edit any value to match what actually worked on your machine,
• Keep your dialed-in version separate from the public one,
• Export your version anytime.

Your private copies are only visible to you. This is the right way to "tweak and keep" a setting.

Go to My Settings in the sidebar, open the copy you want, and click Edit. Change the power, speed, notes, or any field, and save. Your edits never touch the public library — they are your personal version. You can export your edited copy just like any other setting.

Tap the heart on any setting (or on its card) to favorite it. Everything you favorite collects on the Favorites page for one-tap access later. Favorites are a bookmark — they do not copy the setting, so if you want an editable version use Save a private copy instead.

Favorite counts also feed the "Most favorited" sort, so favoriting good settings helps other makers too.

Six free tools, all under Tools:

• Quote Builder — build a branded one-page quote you can send a customer.
• Project Calculator — work out what a job costs you and what to charge.
• Setting Converter — estimate settings for a different wattage.
• Line Density Converter — convert between DPI, LPI, and line interval.
• File Converter — convert between LightBurn .clb and xTool XCS .json.
• QR Code Generator — make QR codes built for material, not screens.

None of them require any install — they run right in your browser.

The Project Calculator prices a project before you cut. Enter your material cost, labor, machine time, and margin, and it gives you a customer total plus the full profit breakdown — gross profit, tax reserve, and what actually lands in your pocket.

It is the same tool as the Quote Builder, just opened on the costing side. Flip the Costing / Customer quote switch at the top to move between working out your numbers and producing the document you send.

Save a quote and it lands in your Planner, where you can turn it into a project and track it.

The Quote Builder turns a job into a one-page quote your customer can actually read — your business name and logo at the top, a quote number, an expiry date, line items, terms, and a deposit figure.

It has two sides, switched at the top of the tool:

• Costing — your side. Blank costs, machine time, labor, markup or target margin, wholesale price, and your profit breakdown.
• Customer quote — their side. The finished document, ready to print or save as a PDF.

The maths does not change between the two. What changes is how much of it the other person sees.

Yes. A quote is built from one or more products, and each one carries its own quantity and its own cost lines — so 24 embroidered caps and 50 tumblers can sit on the same quote at different prices and different quantities.

1. In the Items section, hit + Add product for a blank one, or pick from Add from template to start with typical costs already filled in.
2. Give it a name (this is what the customer sees), a quantity, and its cost lines.
3. Repeat for the next product.

Artwork, rush, shipping, discount and tax are set once for the whole job, not per product.

Yes, and you can choose per product. Each one has a Show on quote as setting:

• One line — the customer sees a single row: the product name, the quantity, the price each, and the total. This is the usual choice.
• Itemised — the customer sees each cost line as its own priced row underneath the product name.

You can mix them on one quote — collapse the caps and itemise the tumblers if that is what the job needs.

Either way, these are selling prices, never your costs. Itemised shows the customer what they are paying for, not what you paid.

No. What you pay for blanks, what you charge for machine time, your markup, your margin, your wholesale price and your profit are not on the customer document at all.

This is not just hidden with styling that could fail. The printed quote is built from a completely separate record that has no cost fields in it — the numbers physically are not there to leak, even if something went wrong with the page.

The same applies to anything you pull in from the settings library: if you attach a material to a line to cost it accurately, the machine, supplier and run time stay on your side. The customer just sees the material name and a price.

Hit Print / PDF at the top of the tool. Only the quote itself prints — the form you were working in does not.

To save a PDF instead of printing, choose Save as PDF as the destination in your browser's print dialog.

Your browser normally stamps the page URL, the date and a page number on every printed page. The quote is set up to suppress that automatically, so you should not have to do anything. If your browser adds them anyway:

• Chrome / Edge — in the print dialog, click More settings, then untick Headers and footers. It is collapsed by default, which is why it is easy to miss.
• Safari — untick Print headers and footers (you may need Show Details first).
• Firefox — Page Setup → Margins & Header/Footer, set each one to --blank--.

Yes — that is the point. Under Your business you can set your business name, tagline, website, phone, email, address, and a logo image URL. All of it prints at the top of the quote.

If you want the header worded exactly your way, use the Company details shown on the quote box — whatever you type there replaces the generated block, and line breaks are kept.

There is a small "Quote built with Maker Foundry" line in the footer. If you would rather it was not there, untick it under Your business and it will stay off for your next quotes too.

Hit Save and the quote goes to your **Planner under Saved quotes**, along with what the job costs you, what it sells for, and your profit.

From there you can:

• Open in Quote Builder — reopen it with every product, cost line and branding field exactly as you left it, ready to tweak or re-send.
• Start project — turn the quote into a project and track it from designed through to sold.

If you are not signed in, quotes save to that browser only. Sign in (free) to keep them on your account.

The Setting Converter estimates a starting point for a different wattage of the same laser type. Say a setting is for a 40W machine and you have a 60W — enter the source setting and your wattage and it gives three graded options:

• Balanced — hold the speed, adjust power.
• Faster — keep the power, raise the speed (best for cutting on a stronger laser).
• Cooler — lower power and slow down (delicate/heat-sensitive materials).

It keeps energy-per-length roughly constant, and it never pushes a CO2 setting past 90% (running a glass CO2 tube at 100% shortens its life). It will not convert across laser types (diode↔CO2↔fiber) because the physics differ — always verify on a test grid.

The Line Density Converter translates engraving resolution between the units different software uses — DPI, LPI, and line interval (mm). LightBurn thinks in line interval; xTool and others often use DPI. DPI and LPI are treated as equivalent here. As always, confirm the look on a test grid.

Use the File Converter:

1. Upload your LightBurn .clb library (or an xTool XCS .json).
2. The tool converts it to the other format, mapping cut/fill/line-engrave process types correctly.
3. Download the converted file and import it into the other software.

This is great when you switch machines or share settings with someone on a different platform.

On LightBurn-machine setting pages you will find a Test Grid Generator in the sidebar. Give it a center power and speed (it prefills from the setting) and it builds a ready-to-run .lbrn2 grid where each square is a different power/speed combination.

Run the grid on scrap, pick the square that looks best, and you have dialed-in numbers in one pass instead of many trial cuts.

Maker University is the resource library — the things that are not settings but still save you an evening.

Three kinds of thing live there:

• Downloads — SVG templates, alignment jigs, LightBurn material libraries, pricing sheets, workflow files.
• Videos — walkthroughs for the things that are easier shown than written.
• Links — the handful of external references actually worth keeping.

Everything is filterable by topic and type, and searchable, the same way the settings library is.

No. Everything in Maker University is free, like the rest of the site.

You can browse the whole library, read every description and watch every video without an account. Downloading a file needs a free sign-in — the same account that unlocks exports and favourites.

That is the only gate, and it exists because the downloads are the thing worth an email address.

Whatever suits the job — commonly:

• SVG for templates and jigs you will cut or engrave.
• .clb / .lbrn2 LightBurn libraries and project files.
• .xcs for xTool Creative Space.
• PDF for reference sheets and guides.
• CSV for things like pricing templates.
• ZIP when a resource is a bundle.

Each card shows the format and size before you click, so you know what you are getting.

Project Ideas tell you what to make and why it sells — the concept, the pricing, the market.

Maker University gives you the files and the technique — the actual template to cut, the jig to hold it, the walkthrough for the tricky step.

They cross-link, so a resource will point at the ideas it suits and vice versa.

Requests, yes — ask through the chat widget or any of our community groups. If several people want the same template it moves up the list quickly.

Submissions are not open yet. The plan is to let makers contribute their own templates and jigs the same way settings are contributed today, with a review before anything goes live. It is built for that; the doors are just not open yet.

So you can see what other makers actually use. A template with hundreds of downloads is a stronger signal than one nobody has touched, in the same way the Most favorited sort works on settings.

You can sort the whole library by Most downloaded to find the proven things first.

We count downloads and nothing else — no personal information about who downloaded what.

The QR Code Generator makes QR codes built for material rather than screens. It is free and unlimited with your free account, and it runs entirely in your browser — nothing you type and no logo you upload is ever sent to us.

Two things make it different from the usual online generator:

• The SVG is sized in real millimetres, so it imports into LightBurn or XCS at exactly the size you set instead of whatever the importer guesses.
• It shows the module size as you work, and tells you straight out when a code is too dense to engrave reliably.

You can make a code for a website, WiFi network, contact card, email, text message, phone call, WhatsApp chat, map location, or plain text.

Almost always one of three things:

1. The modules are too small. The little squares bleed into each other as the laser cuts, and the scanner can no longer resolve the grid. This is by far the most common cause. Watch the module size readout — under about 0.4 mm per module, most materials are a problem.
2. The quiet zone is missing. A QR code needs clear space around it. Placing it hard against a border, a logo, or the edge of the part breaks it. Every export from this tool already includes a four-module quiet zone — do not crop it off.
3. The contrast is too low. Dark engraving on dark material does not read. You need a clear light/dark difference between the modules and the surface behind them.

Always test-scan the finished piece with a real phone before running a batch. A code that reads perfectly on screen can still fail on wood.

It depends on how much data is in it, which is why the tool shows you the module size instead of a single number.

As a rough guide, with a short link:

• About 25 mm is comfortable on most materials.
• Down to 15 mm can work on high-contrast material like acrylic or coated metal.
• A full contact card can need 50 mm or more, because it holds far more data.

The rule that actually matters: keep the module size at or above 0.6 mm to be safe, and treat 0.4–0.6 mm as testable but risky. The readout colours this in for you.

If a code is coming out too dense, shorten the content rather than shrinking the artwork.

Error correction adds redundant data so a damaged code still reads. Higher levels survive more damage but make a physically larger code for the same content.

• H (30%) — use this for anything engraved, etched, or on a curved surface. Fill inconsistency and material grain both eat modules.
• Q (25%) — print on textured or curved surfaces.
• M (15%) — flat paper print. Usually plenty, and noticeably smaller.
• L (7%) — screens only.

The tool defaults to H because that is the right default for makers. If you add a logo or badge to the centre, it forces H automatically, since the image covers modules that error correction then has to rebuild.

Yes — open Centre in the generator and choose Logo to upload an image, or Text badge to generate a small lettered badge.

Which file you upload matters if this is going on a laser:

• Upload an SVG and its shapes are written into the exported SVG as real vector, so LightBurn and XCS can cut or engrave them properly.
• Upload a PNG or JPG and it is embedded as a picture. That is fine for print and screens, but it will not become vector paths, and we do not trace it into one.

A text badge is always true vector.

Keep the centre image at 30% or less. Beyond that you are covering more data than even level H can rebuild. Leave "remove the modules behind the centre image" switched on — overlaying a logo on top of live modules is the usual reason a code with a logo stops scanning.

• SVG for anything going to a laser or cutter. It is vector, and it is sized in real millimetres so it lands in LightBurn or XCS at exactly the size you set.
• PNG for web, product listings, and general print. Choose 256, 512, 1024, or 2048 px.
• JPG when something specifically demands a JPEG. It has no transparency.
• WEBP for web use where file size matters.

You can also set the file name before downloading, and save your style so the next code you make matches.

A normal (static) QR code has the destination baked into the artwork. Once it is engraved on a tumbler or printed on a card, that address can never be changed. If the link dies, the code is dead.

A dynamic code instead points at a short link we host on mfco.app. The artwork never changes, but you can change where that short link sends people — any time, as often as you like, even years after the product shipped.

That means you can:

• Fix a link that broke or moved.
• Point a seasonal product at a new collection each year.
• Send a batch of printed cards somewhere new without reprinting them.

You also get a scan count for each code.

Both kinds are free. Static codes are unlimited; dynamic codes are capped at 25 per account because each one is a short link we host for you indefinitely.

1. Go to My QR Codes and sign in.
2. Enter the destination address and an optional label, then hit Create. You get a short link like `mfco.app/A7K2Q`.
3. Hit Make artwork to open the generator with that short link already filled in, then style and download it as usual.

From the same page you can edit the destination, watch the scan count, turn a code off temporarily, or delete it.

Turn off is reversible — the code stops working and can be switched back on later. Delete is permanent: anything already printed with that link stops working for good and the short code is gone. When in doubt, turn it off instead.

Free, like everything else here. Each account can have 25 dynamic codes. Static codes are unlimited, because once you have downloaded one it does not depend on us for anything.

We intend to keep the short links running indefinitely — they are pointing at physical products people have paid for, and we take that seriously. If that ever had to change, we would give at least 90 days notice so you have time to react.

Two honest cautions:

• Anything you engrave with a dynamic code depends on a service continuing to exist. That is true of every dynamic QR provider, not just us. For a product you expect to outlive the link, a static code to a stable page on your own domain is the safer choice.
• Test-scan before you commit a batch. This is worth repeating because it is unrecoverable.

Every destination is checked against Google Safe Browsing when you save it, and all live codes are rechecked automatically on a regular schedule. If a destination is later flagged as hosting malware or a phishing page, we turn that code off automatically and show you why.

This is not a judgement about you. Websites get compromised, domains expire and get bought by someone else, and a link that was perfectly fine six months ago can turn bad without the owner noticing.

The reason we act on it: every code on mfco.app shares one domain reputation. If one link points somewhere harmful, the whole domain can get blocklisted — which would break every code on it, including ones already engraved on products that have shipped.

To fix it, edit the code to point somewhere safe. It is re-checked when you turn it back on.

We also refuse destinations that are not ordinary web addresses at all — raw IP addresses, local addresses, and links to other URL shorteners, which hide the real destination from every check.

A count. That is all.

We store the number of times a code has been scanned and nothing else — no IP addresses, no locations, no device details, no personal information about whoever scanned it. Automated link previewers and crawlers (Slack, WhatsApp, search engines) are filtered out so the number reflects real people.

Static codes are not tracked at all. They never touch our servers — they are generated in your browser and go straight to whatever they point at.

Click Submit in the sidebar (or the "Submit a setting" button) and fill in the form: machine, material, operation, power, speed, and any other fields you know. Add notes and a photo if you can.

Your submission goes into a pending queue for a quick review, then it publishes to the library credited to you. Sharing what worked for you helps the whole community.

New community submissions land in a moderation queue first, so the public library stays trustworthy. Once it is approved it goes live (you may see it marked "pending" in the meantime). If something is off, it may be edited for clarity or held — nothing personal, just keeping the data clean.

On the submit form (and on your saved copies) there is an image upload field — choose a photo of your test result or finished piece and it attaches to the setting. Photos help other makers judge whether a setting matches the look they want, and they make the material browse view much nicer.

Yes — the Submit a library flow lets you upload a LightBurn .clb library file so many settings can be brought in together rather than typing them one by one. As with single submissions, imported settings are reviewed before they go live.

On each setting page you can leave a quick community vote:

• Worked — it ran well as-is,
• Needed tweaks — close, but you adjusted it,
• Had issues — it did not work for you.

The tallies tell the next maker how reliable a setting is in the real world. It takes one tap and it is the single most helpful thing you can do after using a setting.

Use the Report button on the setting page. Tell us what is wrong (bad numbers, unsafe, duplicate, etc.). Reports go to our moderators, who review and fix or remove the setting. Reporting bad data keeps the library accurate for everyone — please do it whenever something looks off.

Go to My Machines to add the machines you own (brand, model, laser type, wattage). Registering them unlocks two things:

1. Smart matching — setting pages show how well a setting matches *your* machine (exact model, same wattage, or same laser type) and flag the differences to watch.
2. Prefill — forms prefill your machine's wattage and type so you spend less time typing.

You can add as many machines as you own.

When you have registered a machine, each setting compares itself to your best-matching one and tells you plainly: same exact model, same wattage, or just the same laser type — and what is different (for example, "same laser type, but 20W stronger"). It helps you judge how much you will need to adjust before cutting.

My Settings is your private workspace — every setting you saved a copy of, plus any you submitted. You can edit your copies, add notes and photos, and export them. Nothing here is public unless you submitted it to the library.

The Planner stores the project quotes you save from the Project Calculator, so you can come back to a job you priced, tweak it, and reuse it. Think of it as your quoting scratchpad.

Project Ideas are guides for things to make — what sells, the steps, materials, tips, and pricing pointers. A good place to find your next project and the settings/materials to pull it off.

The Gifting Calendar maps out gift-giving occasions through the year with project ideas tied to each one — so you can plan seasonal products ahead of the rush and know what to make when.

Check the Definitions page — a plain-language glossary of laser terms (line interval, kerf, DPI, air assist, and more). If you hit a word on a setting page you do not recognize, it is probably explained there.

The Supplies & Accessories page lists gear and materials worth having, and Brands & Suppliers collects the vendors behind the settings. Many include a discount code or affiliate link (see Deals & Discounts).

The Discounts page lists current codes and deals on lasers and maker gear, and each brand has its own page (for example, xTool discounts). You will also see the relevant code right on setting pages next to the "Shop" link for that material or machine.

The Discounts page is always the source of truth, but common ones include:

• xTool — ERIK100 ($100 off $1,699+) or ERIK80 ($80 off $999+)
• OneLaser — ERIK
• All American Print Supply — FOUNDRY
• LoneStar Adhesive — Erik10 (10% off)
• ProColored — ERIK100
• RICOMA — via the referral link on the discounts page

Codes and terms can change, so check the discounts page before you buy.

When you click a "Shop" link or use one of our codes, Maker Foundry may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — and you often get a discount on top. It is what keeps the settings library free.

Using the code at checkout is the most reliable way to support us (and save), since it works regardless of cookies or browser settings.

The Communities page links all of our groups in one place — the main Maker Foundry Facebook group, the Afterburn Show group, machine-specific xTool owner communities (P3, F2, F2 Ultra, F2 UV, Omni), the Tumbler Files group, and the YouTube channel. Join the ones that fit your machine and projects.

Maker Foundry builds a whole toolkit for makers — all separate apps you may find useful:

• TumblerForge (tumblerforge.makerfoundryco.com) — a 3D tumbler mockup studio for designing and previewing wraps.
• ToneSmith (tonesmith.makerfoundryco.com) — halftone/separation tools for DTF and DTG printing.
• PatchForge (patchforge.makerfoundryco.com) — a patch and patch-hat mockup builder.
• Afterburn Show / Podcast (afterburn.show) — the Maker Foundry show and podcast for the laser/maker community.

And our blanks brand, Maker Foundry (makerfoundryco.com), supplies the blanks and materials behind many of these projects.

Afterburn (afterburn.show) is Maker Foundry's show/podcast for makers — interviews, techniques, gear talk, and community. There is also an Afterburn Show Facebook group to keep the conversation going between episodes.

That is expected sometimes — a library setting is a starting point. Work through the usual variables:

1. Check focus and material thickness first (the biggest culprits).
2. Confirm air assist and lens match what the setting assumed.
3. Nudge power up / speed down for more cut or darker engrave; the reverse for less.
4. Run the Test Grid Generator to bracket around the numbers quickly.
5. Remember tube age lowers effective power on CO2 over time.

When you find what works, Save a private copy with your numbers, and please leave a vote so others know.

Running a glass CO2 tube at 100% power dramatically shortens its life. Best practice is to keep max power around 80–90% and, if you need more cutting power, slow down or add a pass instead. Our Setting Converter enforces this automatically for CO2.

Line interval is an engraving parameter — the spacing between scan lines. A cut is a single vector line, so a line interval does not apply to it. If you ever see one on a cut, it is leftover noise and can be ignored; you will only find it on engrave settings where it belongs.

A few things to try:

• Check spam/promotions for the email with your one-time code, and give it a minute.
• Make sure you entered the same email you signed up with.
• Try Continue with Google instead.

Still stuck? Reach out through any of our community groups and we will help.

Make sure you are importing the right format into the right program — .clb goes into LightBurn's Material Library, and XCS .json goes into xTool Creative Space via Materials → Import. If you have the opposite file for your software, run it through the File Converter first. Also confirm your software is reasonably up to date.